3 questions with 8 chefs

For this interview, I addressed several questions about the current state of the culinary world and cooking in general to a number of well-respected chefs from all around the world, including my acquaintances John Paul Khoury and Patrick Mulvaney, here in Northern California.

Note: this is actually three questions for eight chefs and an added question about street food, which grows from my own interest in the subject, that a few chose to answer.

#1

Three Questions: What new ingredient or technique have you recently discovered, and how have you used it?

…

Patrick Mulvaney, Mulvaney's B&L (one of the finest restaurants in Northern California) and The Crocker Museum's Crocker Café (Sacramento CA): New for us: whole sturgeon from Passmore Ranch in Elk Grove, stuffed with aromatics and slowly smoked on the grill. Used dried Hatch chile in pasta dough - bright orange. Mixed with Squid ink fettucine, served with mussels and andouille - we served Fear The Beard fettucine on Saturday night.

…

Andrew Hunter, Culinary Craft: I’ve recently been doing a lot of sous-vide work that I do for high-profile chefs and culinary personalities. Sous-vide is a great technique for translating what they serve in their restaurants to large-scale production for retail sales. Ultimately this allows a broader base of consumers to enjoy delicious, all natural foods at home with manageable prices.

…

José Cortes, chef consultant and chef de cuisine at Saudade, an excellent steakhouse in Albufeira, Portugal: For the past few months that I have been experimenting simplicity rather than complex and elaborate preparations (my school of cooking is Michelin starred cuisine, so you know it can be quite elaborate). I found that it would be so much tastier to try to eat food that is made with no more than 3 or 4 ingredients and if possible, only 3. For example, when preparing a farse, do not mix more than the base and another two more ingredients, keep it simple, it will taste better. Now, the trick is to mix the maximum of 3 perfect ingredients in everything you do. I did not succeed yet on everything, but I will sure keep trying.

…

John Paul Khoury, corporate chef at Preferred Meats Inc. (Oakland, CA): Just started using a pressure cooker after all these years and just love it! Now we can decide to have blanquette de veau or daube of beef at the last minute! (sort of) ;-)

…

Riz Redzuawan, executive chef & media personality, MXM International; executive chef, On The Table (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia): I recently just started using sous-vide cooking technique in my cuisine. And it works like magic. It's actually cooking food at a very low temp, 50-70° C in a thermal water bath, by placing it first in a vacuum bag. As for ingredients, (I've been using) Roselle, a kind of flower that's super rich with vitamin C, and has a lovely violet color. At my restaurant, I use it in a gastrique, jam and compote.

…

Sandra Mallut, pastry chef & baker and chief sales consultant, Amoretti Ingredients (Los Angeles CA): I have been exposed to so many ingredients from working with Amoretti Ingredients, but I would say I have found black garlic to be absolutely amazing, and I use it for culinary and dessert options!

…

Paul Fehribach, executive chef and co-owner, Big Jones (Chicago IL): I've become infatuated with transglutinamase and the endless possibilities. I've made ballotines that I otherwise would not have tried without it. You can make a farce, firm it with TG, and layer it with other proteins all bound together with TG. The results can be spectacular. I also have become a big fan of the gellan gums. I make a lot of gels out of them when I want a clean, true flavor as a component. Agar has a taste that can be cloying in some preparations, and I find that gellan works best when you want to set clear fluids into a gel so the flavor releases over time on your palate, rather than instantly as when you have a pure fluid. Agar still works best with many dairy applications, since gellan can have serious hydration problems in the presence of calcium ions.

…

Kum Ng, founder of iiGREEN, iiCHEF, the Frameworkcooking methodology, and a Certified World Master Chef working at the University of Washington Department of Health (Madison WI): Frameworkcooking is a world cuisine innovation methodology/technique that was developed by myself after 10 years of research. I have used this culinary theory to create interesting and world cultural foods for the past decade in both Chinese and American kitchens.

…

Connor Butler, chef & owner, Connor Butler (Vancouver BC; now unfortunately closed - this small place was one of the nicest, most personable and welcoming restaurants I've ever visited, and I hope chef Butler opens a new place soon!): Actually it's not a new technique, but this year I've made it a priority to kill and grow everything my family consumes. Hunter-gatherer/off the grid style, so if any technique has been employed more than others recently, it's been preserving and canning. My wife and I made enough pizza sauce, pasta sauce, ketchup etc for the year from our own organic heirlooms grown in the Similkameen. Harvested about 30 lbs a week for a month. Imagine never eating a processed item again … or, a zero-mile diet, if you will. That's where my head's been at.

#2

Three Questions: What's your take on the chef-as-celebrity phenomenon - do you think it is helpful for the profession overall, or is it just fetishization of consumption - and if the latter, is that necessarily a bad thing?

…

Patrick Mulvaney: I don't know about the celebrity thing but think it is great that people appreciate our work, the boys and girls love the appreciation. And I think that attention helps cooks take their work seriously and makes the food better. The flip side we keep in mind is that is "just food" - keeping the tension of those opposing views helps too, it lets the playful side come out more.

…

Andrew Hunter: Celebrity chefs are very good for cooking, restaurants and the culinary profession. Wolfgang Puck, who I have had the pleasure of working for, is the original celebrity chef. He’s beloved by the public and is a great role model for novice and experienced chefs alike. I think the key to his success is he’s a celebrity chef that can and does cook everyday. He has helped to make all chefs celebrities of sorts. If I’m out and about in my chef whites, people will stop me for cooking tips, recipes and with general questions about what it’s like to be a chef. Imagine what happens when Wolfgang walks down the street.

…

José Cortes: When all eyes are turning to what you are doing, this is great, because you always make the best you can. Here in Portugal, the chefs aren't so mediatized as in Spain for example, so all the chef-as-a-celebrety phenomenon would be quite welcome so that our profession could be more respected by the public in general. The restaurant name is always connected with the manager, not the chef, as if the manager is cooking for the people... The more we can be under the lights, the better for our profession, yes, thank you.

…

John Paul Khoury: I think it is OK as far as educating and if it is the real deal, but remember it is still a craft. There are people that are famous like Robert Duvall, and Paris Hilton. Both receive the spotlight. One has substance and one just has the spotlight. I have no problem with Jacques Pepin receiving but then you get some of these food personalities that are that and not necessarily chefs. I think the right message needs to be sent that if you desire to be a chef it is a 'blue collar' job - you'd better be ready to work!

…

Riz Redz: I think its great as it puts the profession in the limelight and creates a whole new prespective in this industry. More talents can be cultivated as the career as a chef is getting much popular this days and looks cool.

…

Sandra Mallut: (It) can be good and it can be bad. I don't like the egos that get in the way of pleasing people and that is what baking and cooking are to me. I feel we are doing this as our passion not a passion for getting a bigger head, getting on TV, getting a book deal, getting on Oprah. It is about feeding the hungry, feeding the masses and getting frosting on your face!

…

Paul Fehribach: I hope that ultimately it will mean Americans are more concerned with the food they eat, and that would be a good thing. It all depends on the chefs the media chooses to popularize, but so far I think it's at least somewhat for the better.

…

Kum Ng: As a world cuisine innovator of Frameworkcooking, I have an obligation to perform my responsibilities ethically and ecologically. I reserve my judgmental comments on other chefs. However, I believe in creating cuisines that bring health and love to the table, besides taste.

…

Connor Butler: Celebrities are a sad bunch and I can't imagine any self respecting chef wanting to be one. Unfortunately, the catch-22 is that people aren't dining out or spending as much anymore. You pretty much need media support to grow your business but sell your soul to do it. damned if you do, screwed if you don't. 

#3

Three Questions: how does your cooking & food prep at home differ from what you do professionally? Are there things you make at work that you would never prepare for yourself or your family, or vice-versa? Why?

…

Patrick Mulvaney: at home I use a french press and a bottle opener, at work the espresso machine and the metro rack. I don't usually saber Champagne at home.

…

Andrew Hunter: I would never concasse a tomato at home! My culinary work is very focused on new product development, specifically sous-vide meats, sauces, marinades. I often test my work on friends and family because everything I do is designed to make home cooking easier and more delicious. My wife and I write a blog called The Family Table where we talk about home cooking that involves the whole family in cooking and eating. It’s gotten a pretty good following because the stories are fun and the cooking is very, very simple … roast chicken in a cast iron pan with potatoes, carrots, onions, whole garlic cloves and fresh herbs is my family’s favorite.

…

José Cortes: At home, I do not take time to prepare the basics, so everything is a-la-minute and direct from the pantry and refrigerator. Only if we have a special occasion I do my pre-preparations for the event. Yet all is prepared with all the love and care. Everything is very relaxed, that's why...At work, all must be very well "mise-en-placed", the team must have all ready on time, everything must be in top shape and there is no space for failure, it is a quiet war, yet all is prepared with all the love and care as much as when we are at home. Everything is very focused on efficiency.

…

John Paul Khoury: Well, now that my professional job has me preparing one dish at a time for evaluation purposes then it is not too much different, but I'd say when I was on the line that your misen place is different and there are much more garnishes, but I think there was always a cross over especially if the menu was mine.

…

Riz Redz: cooking at home is more casual and relaxing for me. It'd be more instinctive approach. Cooking without a recipe. I let the ingredients inspire me, creating the flow. Dishes are simple, fresh and quick as opose to restaurant dishes that are are 'crafted' we build layer after layer of flavors, textures, aroma and gastronomic experience. So this take a lot of resources, manpower, skill and time to execute, something that we don't really have at home.

…

Sandra Mallut: I do not do as much at home as the bakery is packed with all the latest equipment and I have all of my baking equipment there as well. At home I do make dinner and will do cupcakes, mini tarts and goodies for friends and any dinner parties that I have. I really enjoy working at my cake studio best.

…

Paul Fehribach: I wouldn't say there's nothing I wouldn't prepare at home that I do at the restaurant, but at home I stick to simple, easy-to-prepare foods that have a high satisfaction factor, such as roast chicken or noodle soups. I think If most folks stopped thinking food has to be elaborate and cooking is complicated they would cook more at home. To me, home is for the simple foods and dining out is for adventure. Therefore, at the restaurant the cooking involves many more components and preparations, while at home, it's a simple main with a couple of simple sides.

…

Kum Ng: Commercial environment emphasizes speed, consistency, and efficiency. Home environment has the liberty of time, variety, and artistic expression. Frameworkcooking brings balance and harmony applicable to both environments. 

…

Connor Butler: I cook the same at home now. Basic french classics. Simple stuff, but execution is always important. 

#4

Three Questions: What is your view of the burgeoning street food scene in the United States? What would you say to local governments considering banning or severely restricting food trucks and carts?

…

Andrew Hunter: I think anything that continues to raise awareness about local food prepared by local people at fair prices is a good thing. There’s also legitimate concern about food safety regulations and trucks encroaching on traditional restaurants. These are issues that the operators and regulators will eventually work out. My favorite vendor, hands down, is Roy Choi of Kogi BBQ fame. He’s a great friend, chef and ambassador for our profession. Please see my blog, Keep on Truckin’, about Roy and eating families eating together.

…

Sandra Mallut: I think the street food scene is really cool. I live in Los Angeles and follow the grilled cheese and sweet trucks myself - they are awesome. It is a really great idea and I love the way it is developing. I do hope we have more. I would be very opposed to city governments causing issues for these businesses and would vote to keep them! I love the variety that they offer and OMG! the taco truck is yummy!

…

Paul Fehribach: It can certainly help bring quality food to underserved areas, and that would be a good thing. On the other hand, it could potentially become a haven for careless cooks and a public health threat. My biggest question is how public health officials would be able to conduct pop inspections. Should they have to follow a food truck on Twitter to track it down? Maybe, but that has a price. I definitely think there is potential there for public benefit and hope that public health officials and regulators work with wishful operators to make it happen in a way that is good for both chefs and the public. It can be done. 

…

Kum Ng: Cultural foods should be encouraged. They should be popularized in every corners of a community. I love all cultural foods especially their “soul” foods!

…

Connor Butler: Street food is wonderful, I wish they'd let it bloom here in Vancouver. Portland is a fantastic example of what the west coast has to offer from those yummy smelling little kiosks scattered about. I don't hear anybody (worthy) complaining ;)

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